TapaBar review - Bethesda

I finally had a chance to try TapaBar yesterday, the new venture from the brothers who brought you Bold Bite next door. Chef Alonso Roche pushes simple favorites like hot dogs and hamburgers to the limit at Bold Bite, with an emphasis on quality meats and high-end, fresh and housemade toppings and sauces. Now what he hinted at in the fast casual setting is being more fully explored at the inviting tapas bar he and brother Alvaro recently opened in the old BlackFinn space, at 4901-A Fairmont Avenue.

Start off with a refreshing cocktail, like one of four gin-and-tonic variations with housemade tonics. I tried the standard El Retiro, with Hendrick's gin and a slice of cucumber. The drink was bursting with flavor, the best cocktail I've had in a while.

My favorites of the tapas I tried were the earthy, cheesy rich croquetas de setas, mushroom croquettes; gambas al aljillo, a delicious shrimp classic; the butifarra, which has a type of blue cheese mixed into the sausage, and is made locally by MeatCrafters in Landover; and the perfectly-cooked asaparagus and cauliflower. Vegetarians will definitely want to give Tapabar a try.

Alonso Roche's enthusiasm and passion for cooking come through in every dish, whether it's a perfectly-fried and plated egg atop the Smoky Beef Tartare, or the current fish special, Pil Pil. A traditional Basque dish, the gelatin of the salted cod is used in the sauce. Roche is using Norwegian cod, because it has a higher gelatin content. It's not easy to prepare, and not easily found in local restaurants, so stop in this week while it's still on the menu. I would expect more unusual dishes like this in the months ahead at TapaBar.

For Bethesda skeptics like Tom Sietsema, I suggest planning a trip to TapaBar immediately. In fact, I suggest it to everyone. For freshness, quality, flavor and creativity, TapaBar earns a five-star rating from me. The good news is, the prices are not five-star level.

Step up to the bar

El Retiro

Cucumber slice

Embutidos board with
house-pickled vegetables

Quesos board

Montaditos

Smoky Beef Tartare, topped
with perfectly fried quail eggs
and truffle oil

A closer look

Panceta de cerdo, a new addition
to the menu as fall approaches, is
white wine-braised pork belly in
piquillo sauce

Vegetarians won't be left
behind with roasted cauliflower
on piquillo puree

Salmon curado en casa
is house-cured salmon on 
toast with fennel salad and
radishes

A well-placed mirror really
opens up the front of the room

Dine at the bar

...or at a table

Sample a glass or bottle
from the wine list like
this Pingao from Rioja Alta,
made with 100%
Tempranillo grapes

Another perfectly-cooked
vegetable choice, the
esparragos

Croquetas de setas are
mushroom croquettes

A look inside one

A pour of the Pingao

Gambas al aljillo,
a true classic

Valdeon Blue Cheese Butifarra
with pear shallot jam rioja and
sauce

A close-up

Pulpo (smoked octopus)

A limited-time special:
Pil Pil