Wednesday evening, I was invited to Vino Volo at Bethesda Row to try their menu and wines.
It was interesting to finally be inside the architectural designs I had been seeing online so many months ago.
The interior is warmer than it appeared in the artist renderings, with nice wood tables, mirrors and a mixture of lighting and candlelight. Overall, it's not too dark, or too loud, despite being very busy after 6:30. I also noticed fellow diners were from across the age spectrum.
The staff is very attentive without being disruptive. I would compare the service to Coastal Flats in Tyson's Corner, which is probably the gold standard for dining rooms.
James, our server, can also be your sommelier, recommending the right wine glass or flight to accompany each course.
I am a Malbec person, so I ordered the Revolution Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina. It was one of the best I've had. While it had the usual complexity of a Malbec, the hints of mint, mushroom and cigar box seemed to balance the many flavors more than any other I have tried. It also had that tendency to "evolve" in flavor character in the glass as the evening went on, as you might expect from a Malbec.
There was also a 3-glass flight on the table, reds from France, California and New Zealand. The best was the Maison Champy Pinot Noir from Burgundy, France, an $18 glass.
A starter of olives produced a variety of 4, and varying sizes. If you are used to hollow or stuffed olives, watch out for pits.
The main courses are well-geared for the chilly weather hitting Bethesda again. Don't expect a bar and grill flatbread from the pizza menu here. This thin crust becomes a canvas for very fresh toppings, including Roma tomatoes, arugula, and shaved parmesan (which would be a great snack by itself).
I also highly recommend the baked Truffled Penne pasta, with white cheddar, smoked Gouda, truffle oil, fennel sausage, and toasted bread crumbs. This dish is hearty, very rich, and perfect when coming in from the cold at Bethesda Row. I've been conditioned by tapas and small plates restaurants to expect a half serving to be small. And the half-portion was only $8 on the menu. So I ordered the full size for $15. My advice is to get the half portion, which is a full meal, and a complete steal at $8. You could get that and the Malbec for $16, which is a fantastic deal for products of this quality. I also found the bread crumbs reflective of good bread to start with. But also playing a more active role in the flavor of the dish, rather than the afterthought they can often be.
I give both of these main courses 5 stars.
For dessert, there is a small but rich Chocolate Torte with raspberry coulis, which has a 5-star chocolate flavor. And a changing selection of Dolcezza gelato. This week, the flavors were Cinnamon, Maple Syrup and Blood Orange Sorbet. I love maple flavor, so that's what I chose. If you've had Dolcezza around the bend at Bethesda Row, you know what you're getting. It was a generous scoop, too. I rate it 4 stars, because - while the basic flavor and texture were just fine - I though the maple flavor could have been slightly stronger and richer. If you're not a maple maniac like me, it may be just fine for you, though.
All in all, I was very impressed, and will be coming back. The great thing is, you can make 3 visits here, and affordably broaden your wine horizons by 9 with 1 flight each time. The lower entrée prices will also allow you to splurge more on the wine list side.
As I had predicted, Vino Volo is a great addition to Bethesda Row. Some minor logistical bumps at the opening have given way to a successful execution of the concept. Highly recommended.
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